HFU HF Underground
Technical Topics => Equipment => Topic started by: N2NXZ on August 08, 2018, 1618 UTC
-
Going to take a shot in the dark and hope someone is familiar with the older Panaxis FME 500 exciter.
Mine was build years ago and worked perfectly.I had put it away working about 20 yrs ago and recently took it out to play around.
It powers up,but PLL does not lock.Searched around for a replacement PLL to see if that was bad,actually found one but was not easy.
Swapping that out did nothing new.
Finally went through all solder joints,swapped out the 470uf electro and both 10uf`s...a slight better improvement but still no lock.
Swapped out the 2 main RF transistors and all 3 trimmer caps and even re-wound a new coil and tap.
Although it appears to tune better and wants to lock,still drifting all over.Green LED lights on/off/on/off ...etc.
Depends how close my hand is to circuit or what I touch.
Sometimes it acts like it will lock,but never stays that way.
I just ordered new 47uh cap and all tantalum`s to see if they deteriorated over time.
After that...not sure what else to do and hope someone has an idea I am missing.
Jim
-
There were enough of those things floating around in those days. I'm sure someone here will have an answer for you.
-
Still thinking the caps may have changed over time.
Only thing that could be different from just sitting around.
I do not think IC chips fail just sitting in a box.
Have to rebuild the common components and see how it goes.
Jim
-
Does yours come with the IC sockets? If so, try prying up the IC's out, then reseat them back in. That's worked on Ramsey FM-25 FM TX's as well. Also, be sure that you have very clean P.S. powering it at +12VDC. Another thing is to check the AUDIO IN. Is it for standard AF, or optioned for wide MPX audio from the FMX unit? I've seen where you have to have an RFC in series with that. Couple of things to check. Hope ya get 'er going, and I like seeing Ernie's gear still rockin' after all these years.
-
something i do in cases like this is use a can of "duster" upside down as "freeze spray" and a hair dryer as heat, both applied in small areas around the PCB and the components to narrow down the area of defect.
also, using the bristles of a tooth brush to "brush" and locate a component that may have become loose and the plastic end of the tooth brush to tap around the circuits/PCB looking for cold solder joints and loose components or connections.
this type of troubleshooting is performed with the unit on while watching to see if there are any changes in operation.
depending on where it was stored, if there was high fluctuations in temperature and humidity, there will be expanding/contraction of components/solder joints as well as electrolytics that may have "dried out" and adjustments fixed with wax that may have moved out of place.
im not sure if this unit used any of the component glue to stabilize the components to the PCB but lots of older electronics were severely plagued by this yellow glue becoming conductive when it dried out and turned a dark yellow or brown color.
-
Thank you all for the tips.
I had cleaned the entire PCB with alcohol and tooth brush.
Re-soldered ALL components fresh using no clean flux.
Removed all IC`s as they are all in sockets,re-seated them also thinking maybe poor connection.
Tried a replacement PLL IC.
Replaced both RF transistors,trimmer caps and some electrolytics so far.
Soon as the other new supplies arrive will replace those too.
I am not modulating it yet,just testing the unit on a 50 ohm dummy load for now
My power supply sucks and think that could be one issue.I have another PS and will try it again once the new components arrive.
I think I have a good shot to getting this working once everything is freshened up a bit.
Power supply could be the issue and was also thinking that.It is very old and probably dirty voltages.
To me,the entire system was a work of art and building it was a great challenge.
Will post new info sometime next week.
Jim
-
Glad to hear the old horse still has some life left.
-
Well,new caps came today and replaced all tantalum and electrolytic.
Already replaced the main RF transistors and variable capacitors.
Replaced the 4 mhz xtal.
Tried both PLL IC chips.
Re-soldered ALL joints fresh.
Used a new power supply.
Checked all dip switches and they seem to get frequencies in ballpark range since the PLL is not locking.
Tempted to replace all ceramic disc caps but feel that is not going to do much.
Now thinking about the other IC chips but easier to replace them all than try and test each one...not to mention,how do I test them?
Replacing diodes and resistors also seem not worth the effort as I can not believe they are bad.
When I first built this thing,never remember having such a hard time getting the PLL to lock,it was pretty straight forward.
I wonder if I replaced with wrong type of 4 mhz xtal now but just seems so unlikely.
I have not replaced the voltage regulator but will do that now since I have one.
Jim
-
is there an adjustment "can" for the PLL ?
-
Yes...you just tweak the trimmer cap until the PLL locked.If you had trouble,you would squeeze or spread the coil a bit.It did not take much to get it to lock.
When it was first built,I powered it up and made simple tweaks and it worked perfectly.
Something else is wrong and getting to a point now I may have to replace everything.
6 IC`s total with one being the PLL which I already replaced recently.
I do not think I am going to mess with it anymore as I do not want to invest into something that is just for fun and has no real use.
After all,it is not legal to run with a full blown antenna or amplifier anyhow...pure novelty.
The fun went away after I built the entire system and tested it out.
I have the 15/25 amplifier and stereo generator as well all in a hand made metal case and heat sink.
I had to build the amplifier PCB myself back when RS sold etching kits.
Even a ON/OFF rocker switch and stereo in jacks.
The thing is a work of art,too bad it is DOA.
I would attach a photo of this but not sure how on this forum.
Jim
-
Well,may as well share the build.
I made the main case from 030 gutter stock and the heatsink was bought from a local surplus store.
Mouser and RS did the rest -
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/DSCF0020_zpsyispuiet.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/DSCF0020_zpsyispuiet.jpg.html)
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/DSCF0021_zpsajwea537.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/DSCF0021_zpsajwea537.jpg.html)
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/DSCF0016_zpsvcwoeplq.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/DSCF0016_zpsvcwoeplq.jpg.html)
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/DSCF0017_zps9m5o4arj.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/DSCF0017_zps9m5o4arj.jpg.html)
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/DSCF0018_zpsanxnmc7g.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/DSCF0018_zpsanxnmc7g.jpg.html)
-
that is a very nice, clean and professional looking build - i wish i could get my hands on it, i would fix it for you.
-
If I was to try anything more,it would be the hand wound oscillator coil that has the tap on second turn.I do not like how it looks and may be the issue.I recall even when it was built fresh that was a critical key to PLL locking.
I may try one last time to make a new coil and try again.
Here are some notes from the manual regarding that coil -
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/L1_zpskdoltk4p.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/L1_zpskdoltk4p.jpg.html)
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/L1%202_zps8qdorynu.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/L1%202_zps8qdorynu.jpg.html)
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/L1%201_zpsmjlvl0uz.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/L1%201_zpsmjlvl0uz.jpg.html)
-
This might sound dumb, and simplistic, but have to tried rocking each DIP switch ON / OFF. I've seen them get flaky for contacting with time. And, try grounding the master crystal case, with clip leads, to chassis GND. Just some more passing thoughts. I don't think that I've missed that you may have tried that, but....
-
Great suggestion and have fiddled with the dip switches in all ways possible.I was tempted to solder the frequency of choice as fixed to eliminate dip switch issue.
I may try that but have to remove the DIP completely.I hate messing too much with things as I do not want to ruin the traces and pads.
We all know what happens when we goof around too much.
I`ll try solder wick and take it off.
I even thought maybe when I resoldered everything,some solder bridged under a component...so need to really keep looking it all over.
I had to walk away from it or everything starts to look the same after awhile :)
-
Well,good news on the FME.
This morning looked it over yet again carefully and decided to try re-soldering some joints just in case I missed something.
Sure enough,somewhere along the line during my earlier attempts I must have heated a joint on the PLL IC and a diode that is soldered between 2 pins was lifted on one of the pins.It was not making a connection so fixed that,powered it up and it locked immediately.
The green LED was solid and appeared on the proper dial frequency as the dip switches were set.
Pretty happy this morning and now feel this thing is not a piece of junk after all these years.
The diode and cap on the foil side was some sort of additional mod by the designer and was easy to overlook.I am not sure why I do not have the capacitor on there,maybe I had taken that off years ago during an attempt to get it working.I need to put that in place again.
Thanks for the suggestions by those that posted.I tried every single idea and was appreciated!
Jim
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/28mhz%20JTech%20beacon/diode_zps3pbwi10d.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/28mhz%20JTech%20beacon/diode_zps3pbwi10d.jpg.html)
-
Good for you! It's always something simple that gets you.
-
I have free time today and will dig up some additional caps missing on the foil side and try it again.If all goes well,will insert the exciter back into main case,wire in the stereo gen / amp and try again.If I get it to transmit clean and lock yet,will insert audio and see how it sounds.
I think the 50w dummy load will do fine for a short run.
Thanks again to the group for suggestions and hope it helps others who may find this info.
Jim
-
I was fooled and the PLL does not lock yet.
It acts much better with everything I try new,but still drifts off frequency when I touch the RF transistors to see if they are getting hot.
It should not do this when properly locked.
I may break down and just replace all IC`s,clean all sockets and replace the DIP switch.Also going to replace the 2n3904 with a 2n2222 since I have a bunch.They appear to be nearly the same thing.
Already for the third time rewound the PLL coil as I wanted it to be perfect and eliminated from the equation.
Replacing RF chokes seems unlikely,but may do so just to do it.Same goes for ceramic disc caps.
Total rebuild as I am tired of trying to play a guessing game.Most of the parts seem to be inexpensive anyhow.
Could be when I cleaned the PCB using alcohol,some debris may have been trapped in the DIP switches as well as IC sockets.
I can get it to turn on and with a small amount of effort get it to show up on an FM receiver.But when I tune the entire FM band,it also appears in other portions of the spectrum just as loud and clear.This is expected as I am only a few feet from the receiver using dummy load.But it still should not drift off when touching anything on the PCB.It does the same thing with all IC`s removed...so still not working like it should.
Very sad that it was working so well when first built over 20 yrs ago and a shame to leave it broken.Sort of feel it should be repaired just for the sake of the huge efforts I made in the beginning to build it to begin with.Part of me says not to bother and leave it as a conversation piece since it is really not useful as it is against the law to operate with antenna.But it was pretty neat having wireless music anywhere around my property even on dummy load.
Today will do a clean up of sockets and may try A FIXED setting for DIP switch by bridging the PCB pads.
Will continue to update this posting for the record.
Jim
-
Gotta keep us posted, Jim.....this issue reads like an old John LeCarre novel. Need to see how it ends!
Don
-
I ordered 4 of 6 new IC chips from Arrow that had free overnight shipping.They came in an hour ago this morning and anxiously swapped them out.No change in anything.
This is the most baffling circuit I ever worked on.
I broke down and ordered the last 2 IC chips and all will be new and fresh.
Could be that one of these final replacements holds the key to working or not.
I have the DIP set for specific frequency,but showing up center of FM band.I can fine tune the output and tweak the frequency,but for sure not locking on selected freq using DIP switch.
I now wonder if BOTH PLL chips are now DOA. If the original issue was the PLL and I replaced with the new PLL,could have also ruined that.I may hunt down another PLL which is the hardest to find for this thing.
Going to tinker around with DIP switches although they tested working perfectly.
Almost tempted to pull all IC sockets and replace.Maybe some debris got into them even though I cleaned each one best way possible?
Maybe something got under the sockets and shorting out some pins...who knows.Grasping at straws at this point in the game.
So frustrating.
Jim
-
based on the issues you are describing, im very positive the problem is on this PCB.
http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/DSCF0017_zps9m5o4arj.jpg
i dont think its faulty IC's or the DIP switch, especially if the frequency is changing if you put your fingers near it.
-
Can you post a schematic? Not the whole thing, just the part with the PLL chip, the DIP switch and the oscillator. The "loop" must be broken.
-
I have manuals for amp / FME and stereo generator.
If anyone wants these full manuals,send me an email -
wtfbsyt AT gmail DOT com
-
Just to eliminate repetition,will list all things I DID NOT replace since it is much smaller than what I already replaced.
1- resistors except R9
2- diodes
3 - Ceramic disc caps
4- LED
5 - 74C74N (will be replaced)
6 - 74C14N (will be replaced)
7 - Chokes
8 - 2N3904
DIP switch cleaned and tested.
All solder joints fluxed and fresh.
5 turn coil and tap new.
All IC sockets cleaned.
Next,I will replace the 2n3904 with 2n2222 as I have plenty.
Also,will replace 4148 diodes with 914 as I have a bunch of those too.
Will see what I have for chokes and ceramic caps and replace what I can.
Jim
-
Not the best copy of schematic,but here it is -
(http://i430.photobucket.com/albums/qq22/N2NXZ/28mhz%20JTech%20beacon/FME%20Schem_zpsqi9hznjv.jpg) (http://s430.photobucket.com/user/N2NXZ/media/28mhz%20JTech%20beacon/FME%20Schem_zpsqi9hznjv.jpg.html)
-
Just to eliminate repetition,will list all things I DID NOT replace since it is much smaller than what I already replaced.
1- resistors except R9
2- diodes
3 - Ceramic disc caps
4- LED
5 - 74C74N (will be replaced)
6 - 74C14N (will be replaced)
7 - Chokes
8 - 2N3904
DIP switch cleaned and tested.
All solder joints fluxed and fresh.
5 turn coil and tap new.
All IC sockets cleaned.
Next,I will replace the 2n3904 with 2n2222 as I have plenty.
Also,will replace 4148 diodes with 914 as I have a bunch of those too.
Will see what I have for chokes and ceramic caps and replace what I can.
Jim
id be leaning towards (in this order), the ceramic disc capacitors, diodes and small transistors (assuming the smaller transistors are not the common NPN/PNP type) since they are more critical in circuit and susceptible to damage.
-
My list of NOT changed is so small,may as well replace these things.
Ceramic disc and diodes are simple and cheap enough,may as well.
The diodes to my knowledge can be either 4148 or 914`s and the 2n3904 can be swapped with 2n2222.
I already replaced the larger RF transistors and just the 3904 left.
I will have to see if I can find a pair of MV2113 diodes somewhere.
Jim
-
Looks like I am SOL regarding the MV2113 or MV2114 diodes.
Can not find them anywhere.
Jim
-
Looks like I am SOL regarding the MV2113 or MV2114 diodes.
Can not find them anywhere.
Jim
definitely look into the hi-z/ceramic disc caps and the variable trimmers - in my past experience, those were usually the culprit of the PLL not locking, frequency drifting and changing when you put your finger near the circuit.
you might be able to find which one has the issue by dripping drops of freeze spray (upside down car of compressed air) onto each component while monitoring the TX on a nearby radio to listen for changes in frequency.
-
All electrolyitics were replaced as were all Tantalum.
The 3 trimmer caps are also brand new.
I am left with diodes and ceramic caps,resistors and the last 2 IC chips that should be in about a week.
I can not find the MV2113 diodes anywhere and will be the last to blame soon :)
Going to for sure change out the pair of 4148 diodes today along with the 3904 and try again.
Then hunt down some ceramic disc caps.
Will post what happens after that.
Jim
-
Is there a "theory of operation" section in the manual? I can make out the path from the oscillator into the PLL chip and from the PLL chip to the varactor diodes D1,D2 but the rest is not so easy. What part number is the PLL? What happens when you vary R22?
(I think it's 22, not R5)
-
The diodes to my knowledge can be either 4148 or 914`s and the 2n3904 can be swapped with 2n2222.
I already replaced the larger RF transistors and just the 3904 left.
Though they are similar, I would be a bit reluctant to blindly replace 2N3904 with 2N2222. 2N3904 is a bit more optimised for higher-frequency operation and 2N2222 is a just a general purpose switching transistor. They do not have the same frequency characteristics and do not have the same input and output capacitances. Hfe peak occurs at a different Ic so it will operate differently and switching characteristics are a little different.
If you are replacing Q3 in the schematic you showed earlier then it may not matter as it appears to be a simple DC application, but Q1 and Q2 may be dependent upon the characteristics I mentioned above. In any case, it's not clear to me what Q1 and Q2 have to do with the PLL going unlocked anyway since those are the driver and final amps.
-
Is there a "theory of operation" section in the manual? I can make out the path from the oscillator into the PLL chip and from the PLL chip to the varactor diodes D1,D2 but the rest is not so easy. What part number is the PLL? What happens when you vary R22?
(I think it's 22, not R5)
Send me an email and I will send the full manual with theory of operation.
wtfbsyt AT gmail DOT com
-
To "KaySeeks" -
I was not sure about using the 914 diodes over the original 4148 but wanted to try.I may put the old ones back in since there was no change.
Same goes for the 2n2222...going to put the original 3904 back in as that also made no difference.
The driver/final transistors were replaced with original values the first day I tested it out thinking they were bad.
So far,it does even less than it did before I removed the IC`s and cleaned the sockets. Now thinking the sockets have an issue as it does nothing since messing with them.The new chips make no change.
This is getting ridiculous now but somehow it keeps sucking me back in :)
-
After all the work done,damn thing is doing less than it started.
Ever since I tried to clean the sockets,it now does almost nothing now.
Going to walk away from it until the last 2 replacement IC chips arrive.I may remove all IC sockets and solder the new chips in directly to the PCB.Not going to spend another dime on this thing and if it works it works,if it does not work...will be nothing more than an old memory.
Thanks to all that had ideas.If it ends up working,will post it here and if you hear nothing from me again,then it is DEAD !!
Jim
-
Looks like I am SOL regarding the MV2113 or MV2114 diodes.
Can not find them anywhere.
Jim
Become the MV2114 King! https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTOROLA-MV2114RLRG-TO-92-TUNING-DIODE-NEW-QUANTITY-100/150969981739
-
Wow,that is a lot of diodes,but you found them !!
Wish he sold only a few...but tempting.
Thanks for finding that...may be forced to get these.
Jim
-
Here is a question.
The original PLL is a DS8907N.
I found some time ago a DS8907J and the datasheet looked the same to me,unless I am missing something here.
I just found this - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Phase-Locked-Loop-Frequency-Synthesizer-IC-DS8907-DS8907J-NEW-/222132344468http://
Is it safe to say they are the same part and function?
Jim
-
Another fresh look this morning at this situation with a clear mind.
The 4 mhz crystal was replaced with new,but for fun tried another slightly different in freq,same results.
The oscillator works.
According to manual and "pre-flight testing" procedure,I am to power the circuit without IC`s installed and tune for 100mhz.
This is possible.
With all IC`s in place,it requires me to tune the output trimmer caps a bit and it transmits fine,but PLL is not locking.
I find harmonics of freq across some portions of the band but strongest @ near 100mhz.
I jiggled the PLL chip back and forth to see if it is bad connection and it does cut off and on and LED flickers.
Almost seems the IC sockets are dirty or worn and will order new as they are cheap and replace all sockets.
Looking over some ceramic caps,some looked a bit beaten from all the work being done,so replaced them anyhow.Mostly the oscillator stage caps which are .1uf.The other caps look fine physically.
Besides the pair of MV2113/14 diodes,going to leave those for the very last effort as they are costly.
Until the final 2 IC chips arrive and new sockets installed,will know more...going to be a week or 2 though.
Will post results ASAP.
Jim
-
I took a look in my parts bin hoping I had some MV2113 or MV2114s. What I do have is a pair of MV2109s and a pair of MV2115s. If either of those will work for you, let me know and I'll be happy to send 'em to ya.
OTOH, I highly doubt that these are your problem.
-
That is nice of you to offer.I also do not think they are the issue,but at this point in the game,willing to try anything.
the MV2115 may work,but lets see what happens when I replace the IC sockets and install all new IC chips.
Again,this thing worked 100% before it was put away for the last 18-20yrs.
Replacing caps seemed to be the obvious things to look at.But then again,maybe the caps being so poor over time destroyed other things when I powered it up?
I need to see if the PLL chip is good and the replacement I bought could have met the same fate and may need to hunt down another.
Will post more soon as I new materials show up here.
Jim
-
Today the IC sockets arrived and soldered them all in nicely.
Inserted all chips that have arrived new except for one which I am still waiting for.
PCB is nice and clean and went through it with magnifying light with fine tooth comb for bridges,cold joints or broken traces.
Powered it up and still not locking !!
Running out of new stuff to try except all resistors and ceramic caps plus the pair of tuning diodes discussed earlier.
Could it be that last IC that I am waiting for?
Or could it be both PLL chips are DOA?
I just ordered yet another PLL but maybe it is not actually the same type?
I remember comparing datasheets between the original DS8907N vs DS8907J and finding them the same,but maybe I missed something here?
There is another company that sells the "N" type but minimal order is 2 pcs @ $112.00 each...they can keep them for that money.
I bought another one like this instead thinking whatever ruined the first did the same to the new before going through all the components.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Phase-Locked-Loop-Frequency-Synthesizer-IC-DS8907-DS8907J-NEW/222132344468?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Gonna be awhile for that to get here and the last thing I try.
Oddly,with all IC chips removed I am to tune for 100mhz,then insert all IC`s in sockets.What it is doing now is showing up on the frequency I have the DIP switches set to...weird because when I touch the finals,it drifts off freq.
Something is whacky...maybe me :)
Jim
-
Did another run through...all looks fine.
Put the PCB back into the casing and tried again,but this time,with the FM receiver without a antenna connected.
I use a Yaesu FT897 with no coax about 3 feet away.
I should have done this before to eliminate harmonics being so close.
Anyhow,I only find the signal strong near 100mhz right where it is supposed to be according to instructions BEFORE IC chips are installed.
I am to tweak a coil by squeezing it closed or open and using a variable resistor adjustment for 100 mhz with pot @ 12 `o clock.
Without trying,it was @ 101.3 mhz,twaeked it a bit for 100mhz and solid around there now.
But the IC`s are in place,so obviously,no PLL lock.
I am beginning to think the PLL is just bad...both of them.
It sure does work much better,except for the locking part.
I have one chip due here in a few days and will drop it in and try again for miracle...then have to wait for the other PLL.
I may as well try the MV2113/14 diodes...or 15`s at this point.
Jim
-
Lat IC came in today,plugged it in...still no change.
I have already spent more than I like on this thing so the last chance is the new PLL .
Then it becomes an expensive paperweight.
I have other projects to invest time and money into and this one is not priority.
Jim
-
A few posts back I attached the schematic diagram.
Just noticed it shows TWO 74C74 IC chips but the diagram shows ONE 74C74.
One should be a 74C14...not that this changes anything,just noticed this.
Jim
-
I would like to thank "JTA" group member for sending the diodes.
Dropped them in and still no change...all about that PLL chip I am afraid.
However,using the MV2115 diodes instead of 2113 did change the center tuneup frequency.Rather than center of band 100mhz it is now 85mhz.But this is fine as I use a low frequency anyhow where it is most quiet.
Without the PLL sucks...the drift is a bit too much to be usable.
Think I found a supplier for original DS8907N for 6 bucks each...shipping 3 times added to that :(
May pull the switch on one but will wait to try the DS8907J when it arrives first.
This is really frustrating.
Will post the conclusion soon.
Jim
-
Finally,after a month of delay waiting for the new PLL chip to arrive,just installed it straight from package minutes ago and it made no change in operation.The only thing left I have not tried is the actual PLL chip sold for this unit and that is not going to happen as they are not available.DS8907N is original and DS8907J is all I can find...not even sure if it makes a difference but EVERYTHING is either new or tested as working on this PCB.Will changing all ceramic caps and resistors make a difference...most likely not.
Since I am not a fan of ART...this is now the most expensive piece of ART I have owned or ever WILL own :)
Now it will be tossed in a box and shown someday as a conversation piece and memory of something that once was!
I have lost total interest after all this...time to move on.
Thanks to all for your help and ideas.
Jim
-
Salvage the good parts and the case, then smash the rest with a hammer. You'll feel better.
-
Salvage the good parts and the case, then smash the rest with a hammer. You'll feel better.
id rather take it and overhaul it to find the cause of the issue but thats just me ;)
-
Salvage the good parts and the case, then smash the rest with a hammer. You'll feel better.
X2, the larger the hammer the better you'll feel...
-
Salvage the good parts and the case, then smash the rest with a hammer. You'll feel better.
X2, the larger the hammer the better you'll feel...
And you'll feel even better if prior to the hammer you tickle all semiconductors with something like this. I am lucky enough to have something similar to this at work and its therapeutic benefits can not be underestimated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EedHRsiDMZw
-
There was a preacher out in the Great Plains states in the 90's who was "healing" people with a modified transmitter driving a 35 kW amp that was fed into a huge dummy load he put in the middle of the room he was working. He put folding chairs around the dummy load and brought people in to feel the "healing rays".
A reporter covering one of the sessions said she got bit by the RF when she touched metal while getting up for a better view. The preacher ended up doing time for fraud. Pop' Comm had an article on the healing linear of Kansas.
-
Aha, another take on the Rife system...
rgg
-
"And your hair shall stand before the Lord." The Apocrypha of St. Thomas of Menlo Park.
-
I stopped back in to see if a miracle came for 2019 :)
Funny and interesting comments...haha.
I have without a doubt came close to setting it in my yard,pouring gasoline all over it and lighting it on fire to end the insanity.
Maybe make a You Tube video of it ...why not?
Sometimes it is time to let go when it goes from fun to frustration.I have done this with a Kenwood TS-520 radio some time ago,but a bit less violent...gave it to school to tinker with.
But soon as I burn it and upload the video,someone will say...TOO BAD ,I have a few PLL chips sitting here I would have sold you :) What I need is someone that has a working FME to test one of the DS8907J PLL chips I bought and will send to them at my cost just to see if they are the same as the DS8907N. I found one person that has one and sent them a note...see what happens.
Jim
-
I am also tempted to take up Radiorelay`s offer and send it to him...but not sure if I want to spend more money shipping and repairs.
-
I am also tempted to take up Radiorelay`s offer and send it to him...but not sure if I want to spend more money shipping and repairs.
ill cover the shipping - if you like, i can send it back to you if i get it repaired (provided its reasonably inexpensive for me to repair it) - no cost to you for repairing it
:)
-
I sent you a PM...let me know if it made it to you.
-
yes sir, i got it and and responded back.
-
Amazing...emailed the Panaxis people and to my surprise,said he had just ONE original DS8907N PLL chip left from this kit.
Of course I bought it !!
When it arrived,plopped it in carefully,powered up and NOPE...still same thing...no locking.
Not being a professional having all the fancy test gear,it is much easier for me to just pull components and replace.
So far...replaced a bunch,cleaned and tested all there is on this thing.
Now...going to pull some common diodes and a 3904 transistor and just replace those too.
Soon,will be replacing all ceramic caps and chokes if I have to.
Pure insanity...but now a quest.
Jim
-
Amazing...emailed the Panaxis people and to my surprise,said he had just ONE original DS8907N PLL chip left from this kit.
Of course I bought it !!
When it arrived,plopped it in carefully,powered up and NOPE...still same thing...no locking.
Not being a professional having all the fancy test gear,it is much easier for me to just pull components and replace.
So far...replaced a bunch,cleaned and tested all there is on this thing.
Now...going to pull some common diodes and a 3904 transistor and just replace those too.
Soon,will be replacing all ceramic caps and chokes if I have to.
Pure insanity...but now a quest.
Jim
im sure i shouldnt have to say this, but keep all of the old parts that you have replaced in case you need them in the future :)
-
All old parts saved...gonna set this aside for now as I have other priorities to finish up with.
Sometimes working on something too long makes it worse.
I removed the DIP switch and realized I had not replaced it but only removed, cleaned and tested.
No change.
Going to walk away from it awhile.