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The RF Workbench / Re: Someone had Corsair II AM TX experience?
« on: March 15, 2021, 2120 UTC »How wrong you are...
Well, you do try to lord all over a lot of people here so...
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How wrong you are...
Just ignore...
My thought was that since these chips put out a PWM signal but at a voltage and drive current level that isn't going to modulate a transmitter well, simply add a follower/level-shifter after the PWM chip which will do the heavy switching and let that modulate the transmitter thought appropriate LPF filtering. As a simple feasibility check, I obtained an Adafruit PAM8302 module and put that output into the gate of a IRL510 which I had in my supply and chosen because of the low threshold voltage. It worked well enough that I am going to put together a test board with the PAM8302 driving a real FET driver and then a good FET and some filtering to drive a TX B+ input.
Often these same users hook up a coat hanger as an antenna and also hope for the best
The very first ever design I made was an unashamed copy of the venerable LuLu design. Fat better than any other design to date and I must emphasise not my design. All I ever did was make a PCB to make replication a simple matter.
It uses a Xtal which I had to get made at considerable cost (£14 ea.) and managed to get quite a few units made (100 approx).
That was five years ago and all designs since 2016/17 have an AD9833 DDS.
...So as I must say again it's not my design, however there are other designs out there that are and Yes you've slagged those off as well....
I still suspect most 'simple' Xtal controlled designs to exhibit some form of FM that's visible on an SDR.
I look forward to seeing any design from particularly yourself or anyone else for that matter that you mass market and build 100+ units.
I doubt (know) that this will ever happen.
I look forward to your reply.
The reason why it gets some much attention is that many have been built and used in the past. I've found out so much about the designs asking the right people. The parts are easy to get hold of and if your into home construction it can cost under 20 UK pounds to build depending on the version.
I've built Corsette (LM386), Corsair (LM386) and Commando (Transformer) that's on Dave's website and in my opinion they all work well.
Just depends on how you drive it, squarewave = class E, sine =C, sure there's more to it as the o/p has to be bandpass but still the quicker the switching the greater the eff% pure and simples.
Str.
Sorry, I was referring to the extended period above 7 MHz the day before, so the red trace on the right side of the graph. The circa 0620 UTC blip is certainly just bad data.
I suppose if you're on such a KiwiSDR, you could tune in CHU or WWV, see what the frequency error is, then compute the ppm error and apply that to the frequency of the station you're listening to. Note you need to treat it that way, it's not just a constant frequency offset error.
foF2 was up above 7 MHz for a while, this often happen just as a geomagnetic storm is starting, the K index was 4.
1) ... Is GPS antenna really needed or can I forego that for now?
The GPS antenna is not required, but highly encouraged, that's how the KiwiSDR corrects for errors in the ADC clock sampling frequency.
The permissible maximum power dissipation of crystals in the 1 to 20 MHz range, operating in the fundamental mode, is about 200 microwatts and is similar for overtone operation. ... Operating a crystal above or near this level degrades its stability, and the circuits chosen here avoid this problem by limiting the dissipation.
The main point to remember is that crystal oscillators are meant to provide a stable frequency source, not power output. Frequency stability, both short and long term, and crystal life are compromised when an oscillator is operated at an excessive power level.
Why being so negative about comments?
Keep the Peace!- It's almost Xmas!
André
CoolAM Radio - Shortwave
the Netherlands
You could also replace the series modulator with a $11 class d audio amp board from amazon. Efficiency would be MUCH higher, and it makes more sense to go this route since you already have a 24V supply at your disposal.
+-RH