re 'The Lurker' what a plonker, spent hours turning it on and off to see if it blew up, it didn't, so he left it for a year, turned it on and it blew up. Yes I agreed to repair it for free but because of his stupidity and labeling the returned unit as 'Radio transmitter, burned up' with a value of $200, I had to pay fees to receive it. So whilst I'll heed your technical critique (some of it at least) you need to get your facts straight.
As far as methods go, turning on and off a few times (I don’t see a mention of hours there so I don't know where you are getting that) is a fairly standard test to evaluate power-on behavior and see if something locks up. It should behave pretty much the same way each time. If you do the on/off cycle faster, it's a way of evaluating the bandwidth of your bias network, which is a way of checking for propensity to oscillate, power supply rejection, etc. Also, look up "double-pulse testing" in the topic of switch-mode circuits. (A class-E TX is a switch-mode circuit.) It's about looking at the circuit under hard-switching transitions without incurring so much power dissipation. So, no, I don't think that what this person did is wrong. I get where they are coming from because I've seen stuff like this this too. Unusual outside the lab perhaps but on the other hand, if your transmitter is stable, why would you care and what do you have to worry about? Maybe you could learn something from them instead of rejecting out of hand.
The lurker forwarded the email traffic between the two of you about this. [All personal info was redacted before forwarding.] Your interpretation of events above does not fit what I am reading below and somehow, I am not at all surprised by that. I think that
you need to get your facts straight. It looks like they were pretty angry at you too. Why do you have so many enemies?
Note that the lurker's transmitter also had a 15 A fuse too. So both of your transmitters that I have seen have a 15 A fuse, more than 2x the maximum expected current demand. What an interesting coincidence! Because you just said that you put a 3 A fuse in both transmitters before you shipped them. Out of all the possible fuse values there are in that size too. Wow. Amazing coincidence that two different owners both swapped their 3 A fuses for 15 A. Hmmm. (Shuffles feet. Uncomfortable silence.) Nah, that doesn't make sense, does it? I guess the fuse fairy must have gone into the packages when they were waiting in the cargo area at Heathrow and swapped the 3 A fuses for 15 A fuses and done this on two separate occasions, huh? Yeah, that's probably what happened.
Also, you charged $50US for a cap? Doooooode! Those caps are like $3 each at Mouser in the US. You need to find a better distributor that can cut some better deals for you and your high volume business. You know, 'cuz you're like McDonald's with "hundreds of transmitters shipped" and all…
I started forming a picture weeks ago based upon the following and it's starting to gel more:
- The quite obvious transient turn-on pulse issues your transmitters have, that, to me, stick out like a sore thumb.
- The time-dependent nature of the failures those issues will generate.
- The lie you told about the fuse ratings in another post in this thread, trying to make yourself look better.
- The huge current ratings of the actual fuses you deliver with the transmitters that virtually assure internal damage when the shit hits the fan.
- The
huge lies you told above about your interaction with the lurker. (See the emails below.)
- The defensive posture you took when the lurker described the tests they did to check out their transmitter, which also happened to reveal the transient issue that I found too. (Not surprising since they all have this problem.)
- The snide, defensive posture you took when I started poking my nose into your business weeks ago.
- The money you charged for a repair (after saying you would only charge postage), like $50 for a $3 capacitor and the presence of a big transient pulse inside the transmitters that ensure that all the transmitters will most likely need a repair at some point, thus guaranteeing a revenue stream.
I'm developing a picture of your "business model" and if that picture is accurate, your "business model", sir, stinks to high heaven. But I guess once you're in the business of profuse lying, all other forms of deceit come naturally.
Ta-Ta
-----------------------------------------
Hi Stretchyman,
Long time, no talk. It's all my fault and sorry for the long "radio silence" (see what I did there?). I had some personal stuff take over my life for the majority of the year, however, with that mostly resolved, I had some time for the important stuff again. :-)
I never got around to soldering in the extra cap for better low frequency audio response nor did I get around to trying out the programmer that you sent yet. I will though. I got a little anxious to do something so I decided to skip those steps for now.
I recently put together a kit to take with me to operate at a remote site and made the first tests last Saturday with your TX at 12 V/10 W. All good and signal on SDRs seemed good considering what I was using for power and antenna. I upgraded the antenna a bit today and made a cable to series connect two 12 V batteries for ~25 V for tests but when I turned on the TX at the remote site today, I got nothing on the RF power meter and the distinct odor of something smoked (I then looked down and could see the smoke coming out the vent holes.)
I have no idea what happened. I turned it on into a perfect load (I had just finished tuning up the antenna with an antenna analyzer and antenna tuner before switching over to the TX. I had a VSWR of 1.05:1.) The DC supply was good. (Immediately after the smoke I verified that I didn't hook the batteries up wrong. I saw ~25.5 V at the DC connector with the correct polarity, + is on the center pin.) There was no audio connected at the time, i.e., nothing in the audio input jack.
When I got home I opened up the TX. (See below. The fuse is removed.) The fuse (15 A) is blown. I do not see any anything smoked on the top side of the boards. For what it's worth, I do not see a DC short from the center pin of the DC connector to ground. That's been the extent of my failure analysis.
I had this thing working at 24 V a year ago when it first arrived and all was fine then.
I'm half inclined to go buy some more fuses (I don't have any of that size laying around right now), put one in and see if the problem persists even at 12 V but I have a feeling that the problem didn't just go away. Fuses don't make that kind of smell - or any smell - in my experience so there must have been something else serious going on.
I'm happy to poke around a little more if you think it would be helpful.
(lurker) -------------------
Hi (lurker), it's probably the O/P FET, just send it back I'll fix it for you. I'll only charge postage.
Regards and Happy Xmas.
Stretchy -------------------
(Stretchy,)
OK, sounds good.
Any idea why the output PA would blow like that? Do you have a way of remediating this?
Do you think that the slew rate of the of the power supply has anything to do with it and maybe there is an inrush issue? I ask because there was no issue at 12 V. Would either slowing the slew rate or turning on at 12 V then going to 24 V help that?
Thanks! ------------------------------
I don't know (lurker). Only other I know blew because user was switching swr meter whilst txing.
So only the second in 60+ units.
Don't worry!
Stretchy ---------------------------------
Fair enough.
I need your address since I've never sent you anything.
(lurker) ---------------------------------
(Stretchy's home address redacted)
Regards
Stretchy
Mark as GIFT and DONT mention anything radio related on the customs lable.
---------------------------------
(Stretchy,)
It's on it's way to you.
Happy New Year,
(lurker) --------------------------------
(Lurker,)
Looks like you didn't mark the item as a gift and customs are requesting £80.62.
I'm not willing to pay that so you have 2 choices.
1; it will be returned to you and you can send it again, marked as a gift.
2; you put the balance into my PayPal account via friends and family.
I'm sure I mentioned to mark as gift? Maybe you've never sent anything outside of the US?
Cheers.
Stretchy -------------------------------
Absolutely marked it as a gift and marked it as "audio equipment". See the lower left of this attachment.
I've sent plenty of stuff outside the US. Perhaps UK customs folks are illiterate?
If it's not too late, present this to them. If they won't accept it, I will pay for that too. -----------------------------------------
Ok but it's not marked at ZERO value so they'll want their money I'm afraid.
My PayPal is.
(email address redacted)
Cheers.
Stretchy -------------------------------------
Money has been sent just now.
I know that you don't care but I'll tell you what happened anyway. I marked the value as " $0.00 " and checked "gift" on the customs form and walked to the counter. I asked the clerk if the shipment was covered under insurance, she said that it was not covered unless I indicate a value. I know from experience that indicating a value might trigger a customs duty but she claimed that there would not be one because it was marked as gift, and I stupidly believed her, so I wrote in digits ahead of the " $0.00 ". That's the last time I do it that way.
(Lurker) -------------------------------------
No worries, I made the same mistake sending something to Russia last year. It was worth 2K however (a rare item!) and insured it for 300 and the customs charged on the insurance value.
Mother F*ckers!
Anyways don't worry I won't be charging you much for the repair.
Regards.
Stretchy ----------------------------------
Hi (lurker).
OK, it's in poor shape.
Modulator is broken, not sure what's up but have changed the chip and it still wont modulate 100% without cutting out.
Mod tran has caught fire, severly burnt.
Pa and driver blown.
Ive done as much as I can this weekend so will finish next when I have more time.
The modulator is a probem as they are no longer made and the new ones dont fit the case.
I'll have to see what I come up with.
BTW was it hit by lightening!!??
Regards
Stretchy. -----------------------
BTW - when I first got this rig a year ago, I put it through a series of stress tests, one being a series of turn on/turn off over and over again at 24 V either with it "cold" (room temperature) or "hot" (after 30 minutes continuous at 40 W carrier with ~100% modulation). Everything was fine. Then it was put away and untouched for almost a year. I took it out for test at Xmas and all was good. Then a week later, a second test and that's when it blew, right at turn on. Air temp was ~12C. (Charlie clarified this with the lurker. The "over and over again" was "5 or 6 times", he thinks, the second one after 30 minutes at 100% sinewave modulation. Shouldn't be a problem, and it wasn't. What he means by "tests": 30 minutes with music into a dummy load. Then went out to the remote site for a second test and BOOM.)
-----------------------
OK it's all fixed and sending out today.
I'm somewhat perplexed at your series of tests
Why?
If you purchased a $6K ham transceiver are you going to sit there turning it on and off to see if it breaks?
Please don't do that again...
Postage it $30 and $50 for the repair.
So $80 via friends and family to paypal, [redacted].
Regards
Str. ---------------------------
T
hanks for the repair. Please confirm that you sent it the correct address, which was on the box and is listed in Paypal: [ redacted]
A few things:
1) I'm concerned by the repair cost as you said before I sent it that you would only charge for postage.
2) As for your concern over my tests, let me tell you what I do for a living. I am a [redacted] engineer for [redacted], mostly amplifiers. I take first article products, make sure that they work correctly, make sure that they meet specs and if they don't, make changes. Part of determining whether things work is finding marginal designs. Bias networks and DC power management are notorious for having issues that can be revealed by a small amount of power cycling. Not fatal flaws that need to be fixed, especially in the context of a homebrew project (which this is) where overlooking issues is necessary, but issues that nonetheless I would want to know about. Does it latch up? Does it get stuck in a undefined state due to unequal power-on time constants of the different portions of the rig? Am I ever going to see it go into a weird state when I power it on when I am in the field, in the dark, without equipment? That's one of the points behind doing this. Since this rig goes straight to TX at max power supply current at turn on, issues from large inrush currents are a potential issue. Cycling the power is another way to find these.
Stressing things slightly outside the norm but within reasonable bounds is about making sure that things aren't marginal and I'm unlikely to run into problems later. It is standard practice. The point is never to break it. That is a fundamental misunderstanding but I get that from some people who don't have a background in evaluation.
If I had a $6k XCVR, I would power cycle it a few times. I do this with most equipment. However, your question only partially relevant. For one thing, most rigs that I am familiar with will go through a safe power-on/boot-up sequence that takes a half a second or so, so many of the sequencing issues are less likely and the time constants are longer. Also, max current draw is in CW mode at max power.and if a modern commercial rig cannot do QSK at max output (thus max power supply current), then it shouldn't' be on the market. It is less likely to have an inrush issue for this reason. .Also, I'm quite confident that the engineers at Yeasu, Icom and Kenwood will do some power cycling as part of their release to production readiness approval process. Other commercial equipment manufacturers do this for the reasons above.I've had customers in their market segment complain to my employers because my products turn-on sequence did not "play nice" with other vendors stuff.
(lurker) -------------------------------
Whatever
You blew it up by abusing the crap out of it.
If it was just the output FET I would have fixed it for nothing.
I've had to replace virtually every component in there at cost to me.
Pay up .
Str. -------------------------------
"abusing the crap out of it." What a load of bollocks.
So cycling the power a few times is "abusing the crap out of it"? Then we're all in trouble because that's pretty mild and the modern world of electronics is going to come crumbling down. The semiconductors by themselves can take a lot more abuse than that. Also, since you're pretending that I did it, explain to me how the TX went merrily along it's way for a fucking year after that test with about 2 hours of on-time sprinkled in there between the time I "abused the crap out it" and the time it actually died. The reliability models would say that it would have croaked earlier.
Jeez, you would think that the mod transformer would isolate the RF side from the modulator, but no apparently the whole fucking thing got taken down. Think about that for a moment. Think about what that would require to take the whole fucking thing down. How would that happen? It would have to be a major issue.
But you're a fucking dipshit who think that I shelled out $300 to get my jollies by "abusing" electronics. Why would I spend $300 just to do some sort of pretty extensive damage the day after I took it out of the box? Newsflash #1 for you: I've got much more exciting things to do with $300 that don't involve electronics. Newsflash #2 for you: you've got a vulnerable design with insufficient protection, whizkid.
So you're a fucking liar.
Also, so you promised to fix it for the cost of postage and then you only told me that you're going to charge me extra AFTER you did the repair and sent it to me (to the wrong address, of course). You never gave me the opportunity to refuse that extra charge. Here we call that "bait and switch" and it's illegal in commercial transactions. It's deceit, plain and simple. Had you written to me and asked me if I wished to proceed, I would have said no.
So you're a liar and you're deceitful. It's no wonder your reputation is in the gutter over here.
I will pay you for the postage (as I agreed to) and I will pay half of your repair charge (that I never agreed to) because it does work now, though I will probably never use it again. You won't get any more money out of me. I'm done with you.
Also, FUCK RIGHT OFF, MOTHERFUCKER.